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La Closerie des Lilas
171 boulevard du Montparnasse
Paris
+ 33 (0) 140513450
http://closeriedeslilas.fr
A veritable Parisian institution and a popular meeting place among writers, La Closerie hasn't aged a bit. On the contrary, over the years it has become one of Paris' must-see sites, with its chic style and Left Bank effervescence. The start of the literary season in September is the perfect opportunity to (re)discover this legendary brasserie.
At the beginning of the 20th century, after Paul Verlaine, Emile Zola, Paul Cézanne, Théophile Gautier, Charles Baudelaire, Pablo Picasso, Lenin, Guillaume Apollinaire and Alfred Jarry, La Closerie became a favourite watering hole for such American expats as Hemingway, Fitzgerald and Miller.
Today, these illustrious figures have been succeeded by the capital's intelligentsia, its writers and philosophers, complemented by a bunch of trendy young people.
La Closerie's Terrace, Brasserie and Restaurant are three separate areas, each with its own menu. In the pure tradition of Paris' “grand brasseries”, the atmosphere is friendly and courteous. The cuisine is delicious and I particularly recommend the prime fillet of sea bass with spinach, not to mention the vanilla millefeuille pastry. As for wine, you'd do well to follow the sommelier's recommendations.
Restaurant: €40 to €60. Brasserie and Terrace: €30.
Comfortable in working-class neighbourhoods and the tonier areas of Paris, I never get tired of rediscovering this timeless city. The Sex Pistols set the pace when I was younger. New technologies fill my working days now. My little extra: discovering fine eating spots around the capital for romantic dinners!